36-1 Crank Wheels

A forum for discussing topics of particular interest to those running MegaSquirt in Australia and New Zealand, including parts sources, group buys, etc.
long283
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Re: 36-1 Crank Wheels

Post by long283 » Wed Apr 13, 2011 2:25 pm

Hopefully I will have some sucess, then I will post some more details.

long283
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Joined: Fri Jun 02, 2006 6:01 pm
Location: Sydney, Australia

Re: 36-1 Crank Wheels

Post by long283 » Wed Apr 20, 2011 2:24 pm

Using your everyday driver as a test vehicle is always interesting. :roll:

I tried the modded MS2 in the car yesterday and it wouldn't fire. I eventually figured out it was because I had the ECU set-up for the CAS which has a 5-12v pull-up built in to the harness but I was trying to get it running on the distributor pick-up first, which doesn't have a built in pull-up resistor. I'll sort it out tonight.

Another problem I have run into is that my second MS2 which has been modded the same & running the same firmware & tune is no longer reading MAP correctly. The MAP sensor is working and the circuit has continuity all the way to the microcontroller on the mother board. It only updates the reading periodically as the rpm is varried????



I have a bad habit of changing too many things at once & not documenting the changes enough - I'm working to improve that.

long283
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Location: Sydney, Australia

Re: 36-1 Crank Wheels

Post by long283 » Wed Apr 27, 2011 3:41 am

How about some pics?

Image
Here's my MS2 modded with the 4-channel fuel & ignition board.

Image
Some of the wiring underneeth. Wires are for the gm-idle air motor, tach input circuit and ignition output.
At the moment the motherboard is directly controlling the LS1 coils through a buffer resistor but I think I'll go to transistor buffered output with a pull-up resistor.

Image
On the proto-area I have made the tacho input with a transistor buffer and I ended up using a 3-pin header strip with a jumper, similar to the boot load jumper, to a pull-up resistor. This makes it easier for me to change between my distributor input and CAS input. A DIP switch would have been a bit neater Image.

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bluehaze
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Location: Melbourne

Re: 36-1 Crank Wheels

Post by bluehaze » Wed Nov 14, 2012 2:54 am

Hey Long283
I know this post has been quiet for a while, but I'm interested in upgrading my current ignition setup ( VR/dizzy/direct coil) to an Edis system. I see you had some toothed wheels made up for the inline 6? While I'm currently happy with the setup I have, I'd like to put a level of isolation between the MS and the coil. So while I'm at it, why not complicate things and go ditributorless? I'm sure it will improve the ignition control, as well as eliminating the electrical noise I'm no doubt creating with my current setup. I assume by way of the fact you had them made up (the toothed wheels) that they are really hard to get?
FB Holden 3.3 Blacky running MS V3 fuel and ignition.

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wagon
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Location: Toowoomba, QLD, Australia

Re: 36-1 Crank Wheels

Post by wagon » Wed Nov 14, 2012 3:08 am

EDIS is great... nice and simple too. I've been running it on the Falcon for years. If you need a CAD pattern let me know and I'll email it to you.
1984 Ford Falcon 250ci inline 6 MS'd of course!

Now improved the way Ford should have built it with a 4speed automatic.

Also with 3.45 LSD for added goodness.

If you are hitting your head up against a wall it always feels better when you stop.

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bluehaze
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Re: 36-1 Crank Wheels

Post by bluehaze » Thu Nov 15, 2012 3:11 am

Thanks wagon. I'll pm you my email. That would be super. Did you notice much improvement in your Falcon when you changed over to the Edis setup?
FB Holden 3.3 Blacky running MS V3 fuel and ignition.

long283
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Re: 36-1 Crank Wheels

Post by long283 » Thu Nov 15, 2012 10:32 pm

Hi Bluehaze,

I had the 36-1 wheels made up for the holden six and chev. I installed one on the chev and played with it a bit but never had it fully sorted. I ran out of time to play with it (starting a family) before sending it west. I hope to do more with it when I get back that way and install it on the holden six too.

EDIS is a nice set-up from what I hear. The wheel isn't too hard to get made. I had a few laser cut because it works out more cost effective. Most of the cost is in the programming. You can get one laser or water-jet cut from a soft (magnetically speaking) steel if you have a .dxf file.

I still have a few spare wheels or I also have the .dxf and .dwg (CAD) files if you are interested.

The sensors can be bought for about $50

I would also recommend the LS1/LS2 coils, especially if you stick with a single coil.
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