www.MSgroups.com read only forum (Jan.15,2018)

I've never set up ignition control before. It all looks pretty straight forward in the manual until I start putting it to use in the garage!

http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/MS_ ... l.htm#MSnS so I read through this but I can't figure out how to get the trigger angle figured out. Have any of you guys done it?

Not here mate.. I've always used just a dissy or EDIS.

Stag76 can probably help you though.

For the VR style Dissy I did. I just set the trigger angle to 5degs, the set fixed timming to 10deg then just moved the dissy till the timing light showed 10degs and all was good.

One of the ways I have done it using a distributor with a hall sensor is;
- first make sure the timing marks on your balancer are correct,
- then adjust your distributor so the rotor phasing is correct (make sure the rotor is pointing to a spark-lead terminal in the distributor cap when the crankshaft is at the desired degrees BTDC) then lock the distributor down,
- take the fuse out for the fuel injectors and fuel pump so you don't flood the engine,
- turn the engine over with a timing light on #1 cylinder,
- use the "Trigger Wizard" in Megatune or Tunerstudio to adjust the timing so it matches what you see with the timing light.

The rotor phasing is important if you are using a modified distributor. If the rotor phasing is not correct then the spark can jump to a different terminal and fire the wrong cylinder when the timing is advanced or retarded. I've learnt that from experience.

Hope this helps.

What engine are you implementing it on? Using a distributor gives you better control over ignition timing, but the spark still travels via the carbon rod, rotor, then jumping to a pole in the cap, so the spark strength is not improved. Timing is also still subject to timing chain lash and distributor gear chatter etc. I feel the best method is to hook up an EDIS system. The cost is usually less than $100, and the result is a strong, steady spark, and bulletproof electronics to back it up. Another added benefit is that it removes the high tension coil driver/s from the MS, with only signals being transmitted between the EDIS module and MS. I recently upgraded a 6 cylinder 2.5 litre Triumph engine from locked distributor to EDIS 6, and the result was hard to believe...easy starting, much smoother right through the rev range, and more power.

I've just been rechecking things and i'm still scratching my head.

First of all I checked the dizzy phasing, and at 25 degrees BTDC the rotor it pointing at the plug tower for No. 1 cylinder.

Next I wound back the engine until the trigger tooth was outside the pickup, then moved it forward until the light come on (or off, can't remember exactly. At that point the engine was at 70 degrees BTDC. OK cool I thought. In TunerStudio I set the trigger angle to 70 degrees, and the fixed angle to 10 degrees and broke out the timing light. When cranking I can't see any marks on the flywheel and then my timing light "crap" itself

I was going to try to move the dizzy back and foward until hopefully I can see some timing marks, but i'll have to get a timing light first.

Have I done anything obviously wrong???

ta

Damo.

Stag76 wrote:What engine are you implementing it on? Using a distributor gives you better control over ignition timing, but the spark still travels via the carbon rod, rotor, then jumping to a pole in the cap, so the spark strength is not improved. Timing is also still subject to timing chain lash and distributor gear chatter etc. I feel the best method is to hook up an EDIS system. The cost is usually less than $100, and the result is a strong, steady spark, and bulletproof electronics to back it up. Another added benefit is that it removes the high tension coil driver/s from the MS, with only signals being transmitted between the EDIS module and MS. I recently upgraded a 6 cylinder 2.5 litre Triumph engine from locked distributor to EDIS 6, and the result was hard to believe...easy starting, much smoother right through the rev range, and more power.

The engine i'm using is a EFI 16v 1.6 from a Suzuki Vitara. I made a patch loom for it so I can go back to the stock ECU easily, which is why I don't want to modify any of the hardware. It has the hall pickup, ignitor and coil all built into the distributor assembly.

I have another similar Suzuki engine i'm collecting parts for bit y bit.With that one I intend to use COP coils and a crank trigger wheel.

What you have done sounds correct. To find out where your timing is, one easy way is to make chalk marks at about 30 degree intervals around the crank pulley then use the timing light. Once you know where it's firing, it's easy to work backwards from there.